Day 5: Hill is a Four Letter Word

From: Ravenna
To: Bagno di Romagna/Acquapartita (via Forli, Castrocaro Terme, Rocca San Casciano, Strada San Zeno, Galeata, Santa Sofia, and San Piero)
Miles: 65.0 (5,300 ft. of climbing)
Miles Completed: 271.7 (7,900 ft. of climbing)
Lunch: Fruit, bread, meat and cheese in Rocca San Casciano
Dinner: Ristorante in Hotel Miramonti
Accomodations: Hotel Miramonti (in Acquapartita)



Today’s ride was one for the ages. We set out on a hilly route from Ravenna to Bagno di Romagna at 8:30am after having a nice breakfast at Hotel Byron. The first part of the ride through Forli and into Rocca San Casciano is very flat. Boy, was this a headfake. We knew we had three long hills to climb to get to Bagno so we stopped to eat in Rocca. Everyone there was very interested in our journey. Rocca is a small town and I think we looked like aliens to them – swooping into their town with all our gear, helmets and glasses/mirrors. When we explained we were going to Bagno, they rolled their eyes and waved their hands up and down to signal three mountains. The people in Italy are so nice. A shopkeeper gave us two apples as a gift for our journey. Another woman from the store gave me a half a peach to try just to be nice – Italians love to show off their food to you – an I’m more than happy to oblige them. The fruit and vegetables at the stand were awesome. I bought a big vine of grapes, four peaches, two tomatoes and two nectarines for €1.89 – incredible deal. Dr. Ed got some bread, cheese and salami for sandwiches and we ate overlooking a bridge and a stream.



After lunch, the fun began. The first mountain was 3.2 miles with a 6% average grade. A nice little warmup (this is three times as long as any “hill” I’ve done in New York!). Then downhill for a couple of miles into Strada San Zeno. Next, a 1.8 mile hill with a 5% average grade – not so bad – I can handle this – then, a descent to Galeata. The final (or so we thought) climb was a doosy; 7.2 miles with an average grade of 5.5%. Pure pain. Needless to say I was totally zapped of energy as we descended into Bagno. The main town in Bagno is actually San Piero and this is the address of our hotel so we stop to ask where it is. Some people point up the next hill and say that it’s seven kilometers away. I almost fell over. I needed a second opinion since the first was in Italian and maybe we misunderstood. Second opinion confirmed. Maybe a third opinion would help. Third opinion confirmed. We’re climbing again. And it hurts, bad. There’s nothing worse than thinking you are done with a ride and needing to start up again. I’m in total meltdown mode as Ed is calling out how much mileage we have left. After 3.5 miles, I see a woman and her son on the side of the road and ask if the hotel is near. The woman speaks broken English and confirms the hotel is up the hill (she is staying there) but that it’s about 4 kilometers away (2.5 more miles). I almost threw up. She offers to drive me up there – I politely decline the offer and wait for Ed to give him the bad news. “No way it’s that far,” he says “it’s less than a half mile away”. As usual, Dr. Ed turned out to be right. Less than a half mile later I saw the woman jumping up and down in celebration on the side of the road pointing at the hotel. “I’m sorry, I was wrong about how far we were!” I’ve never been happier to have someone be so wrong.



I thought day one was bad – this ride crushed day one – I have a new benchmark for my hardest ride. We climbed an extra 4 miles at an average 5% grade but the good news is our hotel is fabulous and four stars, definitely worth the extra climbing. We ate dinner in the hotel restaurant, which was awesome – they have a huge “all you can eat” appetizer table with fresh vegetables, salads, meats and a huge bowl of parmesan reggiano cheese. I have pasta to start and two huge beef tenderloins in peppercorn sauce. I have two beers, bottled water, coffee an they also have an “all you can eat” dessert table. My share of the meal was €30 – it’s like they’re giving the food away in Italy. Our waiter is very funny. He has an incredibly dry sense of humor. We speak to him in Italian but he responds in English (as if he’s mocking our ability to speak Italian). He’s a bit intimidating so I ask him if I can ask a question. “As long as it’s not too difficult, please”, he responds. Funny guy.

My body hurts – time to rest it.