If you remember back to my comparison of The Good, The Bad and The Ugly and Wall St., I noted that Wall St.'s biggest weakness was that it had a bad ending.
http://thebullycockpit.blogspot.com/2008_02_01_archive.html
Ironically, the real life Wall St. is going to have a bad ending as well. Here's a quote from my post about the movie:
"Wall St.’s ending is melancholy and anti-climactic. It’s also somewhat symptomatic and unavoidable."
Life imitates art.
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Monday, October 6, 2008
A Great Trip with Lots of Ups and Downs
The Italy/Switzerland tour of 2008 was a huge success. Logistically it couldn't have gone any smoother. However, with 395 miles and 25,000 feet of climbing over 8 riding days, there were lots of ups and downs both physically and mentally:
UP: Fit(ness)
My bike fit was as good as it's ever been. I tweaked my touring bike fit to mimic my road bike and the results were awesome. Absolutely no arm pain this year (whereas my arms and hands were a huge problem last year). Additionally, while my fitness was put to the test, I was in good enough shape to have a fun trip (and survive physically).
DOWN: Climbing Passes Loaded
Climbing big mountain passes with packs on your touring bike is not easy. Nor is it fun. In fact, we had the hotel in Santa Maria, Switzerland drive our packs up to a hotel at the top of Stelvio where we could retrieve them after the climb (and just in time for my header picture!). While it's a bummer I didn't get to climb Stelvio fully-loaded, it would have been somewhat of a physical impossibility given that we rode 170 miles and climbed 12,500 feet the three days prior.
UP: Climbing Stelvio
Stelvio is a monster. It deserves all the hype it gets. It's the highest mountain pass in Italy and it's the most amount of vertical gain you can do cycling on any road in Italy. The total climb from Prato, Italy is 15 miles and it averages a 7.4% grade. But the first 4.5 miles are only roughly a 5% grade and the final 10.5 miles average 8.3%. There are 48 total switchbacks and each one is numbered. The first 24 are below the tree line. When you reach switchback #24 you get above the tree line and can see the road snaking up to the top in front of you. It's relieving to be halfway done but also intimidating to see the rest of the ride. This is when the altitude begins to impact you as well. The "teens" switchbacks were the worst. They were long and steep and you were in “no man's land” in terms of finishing. Getting to the top felt incredible and I celebrated with a traditional Bratwurst and a beer. The views along the route are stunning, as are the ones from the top. I bought a sticker that I'm going to put on my touring bike as a reminder of the climb. Even the Italians (who think everything is "flat") get impressed when you tell them you climbed Stelvio. "AHHHH, PASSO STELVIO!!!!" they say as they weave their hand into the air to mimic the steep switchbacks.
DOWN: Descending Stelvio
As memorable as the climb was up Stelvio, it was quickly erased by the descent on the other side of the mountain/into Bormio. Ed went ahead because he was cold. I stayed back to take pictures and thus I descended alone. The only way to describe the descent is cold, stark and eerie. I almost got vertigo as I weaved my way through the switchbacks into the misty, cavernous abyss of the Alps. The road was desolate aside from a random car or motorcycle that buzzed up behind me. Sometimes, I heard cars behind me that weren't there. I had to navigate through a half-dozen one-lane pitch black tunnels without any lights. There were sheer drops to my right with no guard rails. Often people would tell you not to look down when you are in the mountains. In this case I felt like I couldn't look anywhere. Everything was scary and intimidating. I had to center myself a few times. It was cold and it was getting dark fast. I couldn't "manage" my way down. I just had to do it. Roughly 13 miles at a 7% average grade of descent. I can't describe the relief I felt when I finally got into the tree line. I never expect the descent of Stelvio to have such an impact on me.
UP: Varese/World Championships
We stumbled on the World Championships of cycling in Varese on our first ride. We had no idea they were scheduled. It was a nice surprise and we even saw some NYCC members there.
DOWN: Maloja Pass/St. Moritz Arrival
Moloja pass is a mother of a pass, particularly when you are carrying your gear. I was dreading this day of riding before it even happened and it didn't disappoint: 80 miles and 7,500 feet of climbing. Maloja is basically two passes in one. It grinds you down for 17 miles at 4% and then the crescendo is two miles of exaggerated switchbacks at a 9% average grade. I felt like I had nothing left as we got to the switchbacks and the cold really starting kicking in. Putting my winter gear on gave me a nice excuse to take a break. About halfway up, Ed and I had a laughing attack from exhaustion as motorcycles and cars whizzed past us without a care. When we arrived at the top, there was a thick heavy mist that bordered on rain and it was starting to get dark. I convinced Ed to grab a celebratory coffee and when we started on our way again it was pitch black and the road was unlit. We had 10 miles left until reaching St. Moritz and it felt like it was 50 miles. I was holding up a flashlight in my left hand as our guide but it wasn’t doing much with the thick fog. There was a lake to our right and the water was lapping up toward the side of the road – I felt like the creature from the Black Lagoon was going to jump out at us. I was scared sh*tless. If Ed wasn’t there I would have curled up into a ball on the side of the road. We finally got to our hotel about 9pm. It was a long day.
UP: Iseo/Day 7 Ride
The ride to the town of Iseo was awesome. It was basically a downhill shot as we retraced the slow grind we did up Maloja Pass earlier in the week (and much further east). We found a bike path that trailed the lake for 5 or so miles and rode with a local group of riders for a bit. The town of Iseo is right on the lake and had a great vibe.
DOWN: Day 8 Ride/rain/flat
Day 8 was brutal. After the ease of our Day 7 ride, I had a feeling we were in for some trouble. The ride was described as “flat” but you quickly learn that “flat” to Italians isn’t the same as the flat we are used to here. It ended up being a 60 mile grind with a decent amount of climbing. We got lost several times and got caught in three huge downpours. I told Ed early on “this is just going to be one of those days”. “It’s fine” he said “as long as we don’t get any flats.” UGGGGGGH – you never mention flats. NEVER. Rookie move I told Ed. An hour later I got my first touring flat from a thorn.
UP: Italian people
The people are what make Italy so great. It’s hard to describe unless you’ve been there. They are so down to earth and accommodating. They will do anything to help you and they take an interest in what you are doing. They truly live in the moment and live for life’s experiences vs. material things.
DOWN: Swiss people
The Swiss are just plain strange. Maybe it was partly because I was comparing them to Italians but the Swiss are so darn quirky. They’re anal and uptight. Borat needs to work his way through Switzerland with a rubber fist to loosen them up a bit.
UP: Not Burned out
Unlike last year, I’m not burned out on cycling after this trip. I think part of the reason is because I had less anxiety about the trip logistics given the huge buildup of buying equipment and planning I had last year. I feel pretty fresh and am looking forward to getting on the bike again soon.
DOWN: Season winding down
The season is winding down but hopefully I can get in some more solid riding before it gets cold. I’d also love to continue riding through the winter but I don’t want to pressure myself too much at this point.
UP: Fit(ness)
My bike fit was as good as it's ever been. I tweaked my touring bike fit to mimic my road bike and the results were awesome. Absolutely no arm pain this year (whereas my arms and hands were a huge problem last year). Additionally, while my fitness was put to the test, I was in good enough shape to have a fun trip (and survive physically).
DOWN: Climbing Passes Loaded
Climbing big mountain passes with packs on your touring bike is not easy. Nor is it fun. In fact, we had the hotel in Santa Maria, Switzerland drive our packs up to a hotel at the top of Stelvio where we could retrieve them after the climb (and just in time for my header picture!). While it's a bummer I didn't get to climb Stelvio fully-loaded, it would have been somewhat of a physical impossibility given that we rode 170 miles and climbed 12,500 feet the three days prior.
UP: Climbing Stelvio
Stelvio is a monster. It deserves all the hype it gets. It's the highest mountain pass in Italy and it's the most amount of vertical gain you can do cycling on any road in Italy. The total climb from Prato, Italy is 15 miles and it averages a 7.4% grade. But the first 4.5 miles are only roughly a 5% grade and the final 10.5 miles average 8.3%. There are 48 total switchbacks and each one is numbered. The first 24 are below the tree line. When you reach switchback #24 you get above the tree line and can see the road snaking up to the top in front of you. It's relieving to be halfway done but also intimidating to see the rest of the ride. This is when the altitude begins to impact you as well. The "teens" switchbacks were the worst. They were long and steep and you were in “no man's land” in terms of finishing. Getting to the top felt incredible and I celebrated with a traditional Bratwurst and a beer. The views along the route are stunning, as are the ones from the top. I bought a sticker that I'm going to put on my touring bike as a reminder of the climb. Even the Italians (who think everything is "flat") get impressed when you tell them you climbed Stelvio. "AHHHH, PASSO STELVIO!!!!" they say as they weave their hand into the air to mimic the steep switchbacks.
DOWN: Descending Stelvio
As memorable as the climb was up Stelvio, it was quickly erased by the descent on the other side of the mountain/into Bormio. Ed went ahead because he was cold. I stayed back to take pictures and thus I descended alone. The only way to describe the descent is cold, stark and eerie. I almost got vertigo as I weaved my way through the switchbacks into the misty, cavernous abyss of the Alps. The road was desolate aside from a random car or motorcycle that buzzed up behind me. Sometimes, I heard cars behind me that weren't there. I had to navigate through a half-dozen one-lane pitch black tunnels without any lights. There were sheer drops to my right with no guard rails. Often people would tell you not to look down when you are in the mountains. In this case I felt like I couldn't look anywhere. Everything was scary and intimidating. I had to center myself a few times. It was cold and it was getting dark fast. I couldn't "manage" my way down. I just had to do it. Roughly 13 miles at a 7% average grade of descent. I can't describe the relief I felt when I finally got into the tree line. I never expect the descent of Stelvio to have such an impact on me.
UP: Varese/World Championships
We stumbled on the World Championships of cycling in Varese on our first ride. We had no idea they were scheduled. It was a nice surprise and we even saw some NYCC members there.
DOWN: Maloja Pass/St. Moritz Arrival
Moloja pass is a mother of a pass, particularly when you are carrying your gear. I was dreading this day of riding before it even happened and it didn't disappoint: 80 miles and 7,500 feet of climbing. Maloja is basically two passes in one. It grinds you down for 17 miles at 4% and then the crescendo is two miles of exaggerated switchbacks at a 9% average grade. I felt like I had nothing left as we got to the switchbacks and the cold really starting kicking in. Putting my winter gear on gave me a nice excuse to take a break. About halfway up, Ed and I had a laughing attack from exhaustion as motorcycles and cars whizzed past us without a care. When we arrived at the top, there was a thick heavy mist that bordered on rain and it was starting to get dark. I convinced Ed to grab a celebratory coffee and when we started on our way again it was pitch black and the road was unlit. We had 10 miles left until reaching St. Moritz and it felt like it was 50 miles. I was holding up a flashlight in my left hand as our guide but it wasn’t doing much with the thick fog. There was a lake to our right and the water was lapping up toward the side of the road – I felt like the creature from the Black Lagoon was going to jump out at us. I was scared sh*tless. If Ed wasn’t there I would have curled up into a ball on the side of the road. We finally got to our hotel about 9pm. It was a long day.
UP: Iseo/Day 7 Ride
The ride to the town of Iseo was awesome. It was basically a downhill shot as we retraced the slow grind we did up Maloja Pass earlier in the week (and much further east). We found a bike path that trailed the lake for 5 or so miles and rode with a local group of riders for a bit. The town of Iseo is right on the lake and had a great vibe.
DOWN: Day 8 Ride/rain/flat
Day 8 was brutal. After the ease of our Day 7 ride, I had a feeling we were in for some trouble. The ride was described as “flat” but you quickly learn that “flat” to Italians isn’t the same as the flat we are used to here. It ended up being a 60 mile grind with a decent amount of climbing. We got lost several times and got caught in three huge downpours. I told Ed early on “this is just going to be one of those days”. “It’s fine” he said “as long as we don’t get any flats.” UGGGGGGH – you never mention flats. NEVER. Rookie move I told Ed. An hour later I got my first touring flat from a thorn.
UP: Italian people
The people are what make Italy so great. It’s hard to describe unless you’ve been there. They are so down to earth and accommodating. They will do anything to help you and they take an interest in what you are doing. They truly live in the moment and live for life’s experiences vs. material things.
DOWN: Swiss people
The Swiss are just plain strange. Maybe it was partly because I was comparing them to Italians but the Swiss are so darn quirky. They’re anal and uptight. Borat needs to work his way through Switzerland with a rubber fist to loosen them up a bit.
UP: Not Burned out
Unlike last year, I’m not burned out on cycling after this trip. I think part of the reason is because I had less anxiety about the trip logistics given the huge buildup of buying equipment and planning I had last year. I feel pretty fresh and am looking forward to getting on the bike again soon.
DOWN: Season winding down
The season is winding down but hopefully I can get in some more solid riding before it gets cold. I’d also love to continue riding through the winter but I don’t want to pressure myself too much at this point.
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