Date: 9/13/07
From: Bagno di Romagna
To: N/A
Miles: N/A
Miles Completed: 206.7 (7,900 ft. of climbing)
Lunch: La Gardina
Dinner: Ristorante in Hotel Miramonte
Accommodations: Hotel Miramonte (in Acquapartita)
Today we took an unscheduled day of rest. I suggested we rest after the difficult day and Dr. Ed quickly agreed. Good teamwork at its best. Dr. Ed asks the front desk to call our hotel in Siena and cancel our room. In another Fawlty Towers episode, she instead books another night’s stay. Luckily, Dr. Ed catches her mistake.
The banter with our enigmatic waiter is increasing. “Bonjourno”, we say – “Goood Mourning”, he responds; “Grazie”, we say – “yoouuu’re welcome”, he quips. In fact, his characterization of the ride to Siena and the mountain pass we must climb is one of the main reasons we decide to rest. When we quizzed him on the ride to Siena, he states it’s 300km away (180 miles!) – this is dead wrong – we know it’s only 80 miles away, yet somehow it still scares me. Then he starts talking about the mountain pass as if it’s Mt. Everest. I explain to him the ride we did from Ravenna. “Ravenna? The ride from Ravenna is a JOKE compared to this…Raaavennnnna, heh!!” The fear factor is high. He tells us it’s an average 15% grade for 9 miles. I can’t imagine this is true but I’m still scared. Basically, we have to do this mountain pass whether no matter what, but we decide to skip Siena and go straight to Florence tomorrow (which will be a more difficult ride because we actually have to do two mountain passes).
The waiter is beginning to warm to us now. I start calling “mi amico” – which means my friend in Italian. He rolls his eyes. I tell him he’s crazy. He responds “My friend, I am many things, but crazy is not one of them.” I suggest a little bit crazy at least. “Ok, maybe a little be crazy”, he concurs. We take a picture with the waiter but I lost it – need to get Dr. Ed’s copy.
Time for bed – we have a loooong ride tomorrow.
Sunday, September 30, 2007
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Day 5: Hill is a Four Letter Word
From: Ravenna
To: Bagno di Romagna/Acquapartita (via Forli, Castrocaro Terme, Rocca San Casciano, Strada San Zeno, Galeata, Santa Sofia, and San Piero)
Miles: 65.0 (5,300 ft. of climbing)
Miles Completed: 271.7 (7,900 ft. of climbing)
Lunch: Fruit, bread, meat and cheese in Rocca San Casciano
Dinner: Ristorante in Hotel Miramonti
Accomodations: Hotel Miramonti (in Acquapartita)
Today’s ride was one for the ages. We set out on a hilly route from Ravenna to Bagno di Romagna at 8:30am after having a nice breakfast at Hotel Byron. The first part of the ride through Forli and into Rocca San Casciano is very flat. Boy, was this a headfake. We knew we had three long hills to climb to get to Bagno so we stopped to eat in Rocca. Everyone there was very interested in our journey. Rocca is a small town and I think we looked like aliens to them – swooping into their town with all our gear, helmets and glasses/mirrors. When we explained we were going to Bagno, they rolled their eyes and waved their hands up and down to signal three mountains. The people in Italy are so nice. A shopkeeper gave us two apples as a gift for our journey. Another woman from the store gave me a half a peach to try just to be nice – Italians love to show off their food to you – an I’m more than happy to oblige them. The fruit and vegetables at the stand were awesome. I bought a big vine of grapes, four peaches, two tomatoes and two nectarines for €1.89 – incredible deal. Dr. Ed got some bread, cheese and salami for sandwiches and we ate overlooking a bridge and a stream.
After lunch, the fun began. The first mountain was 3.2 miles with a 6% average grade. A nice little warmup (this is three times as long as any “hill” I’ve done in New York!). Then downhill for a couple of miles into Strada San Zeno. Next, a 1.8 mile hill with a 5% average grade – not so bad – I can handle this – then, a descent to Galeata. The final (or so we thought) climb was a doosy; 7.2 miles with an average grade of 5.5%. Pure pain. Needless to say I was totally zapped of energy as we descended into Bagno. The main town in Bagno is actually San Piero and this is the address of our hotel so we stop to ask where it is. Some people point up the next hill and say that it’s seven kilometers away. I almost fell over. I needed a second opinion since the first was in Italian and maybe we misunderstood. Second opinion confirmed. Maybe a third opinion would help. Third opinion confirmed. We’re climbing again. And it hurts, bad. There’s nothing worse than thinking you are done with a ride and needing to start up again. I’m in total meltdown mode as Ed is calling out how much mileage we have left. After 3.5 miles, I see a woman and her son on the side of the road and ask if the hotel is near. The woman speaks broken English and confirms the hotel is up the hill (she is staying there) but that it’s about 4 kilometers away (2.5 more miles). I almost threw up. She offers to drive me up there – I politely decline the offer and wait for Ed to give him the bad news. “No way it’s that far,” he says “it’s less than a half mile away”. As usual, Dr. Ed turned out to be right. Less than a half mile later I saw the woman jumping up and down in celebration on the side of the road pointing at the hotel. “I’m sorry, I was wrong about how far we were!” I’ve never been happier to have someone be so wrong.
I thought day one was bad – this ride crushed day one – I have a new benchmark for my hardest ride. We climbed an extra 4 miles at an average 5% grade but the good news is our hotel is fabulous and four stars, definitely worth the extra climbing. We ate dinner in the hotel restaurant, which was awesome – they have a huge “all you can eat” appetizer table with fresh vegetables, salads, meats and a huge bowl of parmesan reggiano cheese. I have pasta to start and two huge beef tenderloins in peppercorn sauce. I have two beers, bottled water, coffee an they also have an “all you can eat” dessert table. My share of the meal was €30 – it’s like they’re giving the food away in Italy. Our waiter is very funny. He has an incredibly dry sense of humor. We speak to him in Italian but he responds in English (as if he’s mocking our ability to speak Italian). He’s a bit intimidating so I ask him if I can ask a question. “As long as it’s not too difficult, please”, he responds. Funny guy.
My body hurts – time to rest it.
To: Bagno di Romagna/Acquapartita (via Forli, Castrocaro Terme, Rocca San Casciano, Strada San Zeno, Galeata, Santa Sofia, and San Piero)
Miles: 65.0 (5,300 ft. of climbing)
Miles Completed: 271.7 (7,900 ft. of climbing)
Lunch: Fruit, bread, meat and cheese in Rocca San Casciano
Dinner: Ristorante in Hotel Miramonti
Accomodations: Hotel Miramonti (in Acquapartita)
Today’s ride was one for the ages. We set out on a hilly route from Ravenna to Bagno di Romagna at 8:30am after having a nice breakfast at Hotel Byron. The first part of the ride through Forli and into Rocca San Casciano is very flat. Boy, was this a headfake. We knew we had three long hills to climb to get to Bagno so we stopped to eat in Rocca. Everyone there was very interested in our journey. Rocca is a small town and I think we looked like aliens to them – swooping into their town with all our gear, helmets and glasses/mirrors. When we explained we were going to Bagno, they rolled their eyes and waved their hands up and down to signal three mountains. The people in Italy are so nice. A shopkeeper gave us two apples as a gift for our journey. Another woman from the store gave me a half a peach to try just to be nice – Italians love to show off their food to you – an I’m more than happy to oblige them. The fruit and vegetables at the stand were awesome. I bought a big vine of grapes, four peaches, two tomatoes and two nectarines for €1.89 – incredible deal. Dr. Ed got some bread, cheese and salami for sandwiches and we ate overlooking a bridge and a stream.
After lunch, the fun began. The first mountain was 3.2 miles with a 6% average grade. A nice little warmup (this is three times as long as any “hill” I’ve done in New York!). Then downhill for a couple of miles into Strada San Zeno. Next, a 1.8 mile hill with a 5% average grade – not so bad – I can handle this – then, a descent to Galeata. The final (or so we thought) climb was a doosy; 7.2 miles with an average grade of 5.5%. Pure pain. Needless to say I was totally zapped of energy as we descended into Bagno. The main town in Bagno is actually San Piero and this is the address of our hotel so we stop to ask where it is. Some people point up the next hill and say that it’s seven kilometers away. I almost fell over. I needed a second opinion since the first was in Italian and maybe we misunderstood. Second opinion confirmed. Maybe a third opinion would help. Third opinion confirmed. We’re climbing again. And it hurts, bad. There’s nothing worse than thinking you are done with a ride and needing to start up again. I’m in total meltdown mode as Ed is calling out how much mileage we have left. After 3.5 miles, I see a woman and her son on the side of the road and ask if the hotel is near. The woman speaks broken English and confirms the hotel is up the hill (she is staying there) but that it’s about 4 kilometers away (2.5 more miles). I almost threw up. She offers to drive me up there – I politely decline the offer and wait for Ed to give him the bad news. “No way it’s that far,” he says “it’s less than a half mile away”. As usual, Dr. Ed turned out to be right. Less than a half mile later I saw the woman jumping up and down in celebration on the side of the road pointing at the hotel. “I’m sorry, I was wrong about how far we were!” I’ve never been happier to have someone be so wrong.
I thought day one was bad – this ride crushed day one – I have a new benchmark for my hardest ride. We climbed an extra 4 miles at an average 5% grade but the good news is our hotel is fabulous and four stars, definitely worth the extra climbing. We ate dinner in the hotel restaurant, which was awesome – they have a huge “all you can eat” appetizer table with fresh vegetables, salads, meats and a huge bowl of parmesan reggiano cheese. I have pasta to start and two huge beef tenderloins in peppercorn sauce. I have two beers, bottled water, coffee an they also have an “all you can eat” dessert table. My share of the meal was €30 – it’s like they’re giving the food away in Italy. Our waiter is very funny. He has an incredibly dry sense of humor. We speak to him in Italian but he responds in English (as if he’s mocking our ability to speak Italian). He’s a bit intimidating so I ask him if I can ask a question. “As long as it’s not too difficult, please”, he responds. Funny guy.
My body hurts – time to rest it.
Friday, September 28, 2007
Day 4: 10,000 Maniacs on a Bike
Date: 9/11/07
From: Bologna
To: Ravenna (via Medicina, Santa Agata and Lugo)
Miles: 50.0 (300 ft. of climbing)
Miles Completed: 206.7 (2,600 ft. of climbing)
Lunch: Ristorante Bizzani
Dinner: Ristorante La Gardela
Accommodations: Hotel Centrale Byron
Today we rose at 7am and were on the road by 8:45am – the 7am wakeup is becoming a routine. I was excited to ride today for sure. I learned the power of the tailwind today – it’s a cyclist’s best friend. We rode with little effort for the first 15 miles – almost as if we were gliding on ice – awesome feeling. I also rode to music for the first time and rediscovered the band 10,000 Maniacs – they provided a perfect backdrop for cruising the beautiful Italian scenery.
Interestingly, the part of my body that has been giving me the most trouble is my arms and they are screaming at me today. I tried several different saddle (seat) positions and none have really worked. I’m afraid I need to decide between trading off my legs for my arms if I want more arm comfort. This is a no-brainer – legs are much more important than arms so tomorrow I’m going to reposition my saddle again. Dr. Ed suggests I need a stem with more rise (higher angle), which will lift my handlebars and take pressure of my arms. The search for a new stem is on; however, I realize the odds of finding the right one are slim.
We stopped in two medieval cities on the way (Medicina and Santa Agata) which were very cool. My Italian is improving a bit and we are on a constant search for negozio della bicicletta (bike shops) for local cycling jerseys. I think “dove รจ un negozio della bicicletta?” (where is a bike shop?), has now surpassed “dis is our first week on da job” as the most used phrase on the trip.
Our second stop in Santa Agata led us to a bike shop with no jerseys; however, he directed us to a SOMEC store just before Lugo. It looked great but unfortunately it was closed until 3:30pm. For some reason, it seems like we are hitting a lot of stores/towns when they are closed. Pretty much every town has siesta from 12:30pm-3:30pm but they also have these random times when they are closed in addition. The SOMEC bike shop was randomly closed on Tuesday mornings (and that’s when we got there). Oh well. Speaking of random, Dr. Ed gets two flats within two minutes of each other – they actually turn out to be tube defects (vs. something piercing the tire). We rode through Lugo and found a bike shop called Deka but they had no good jerseys in my size. This jersey thing is becoming a serious quest.
We arrived in Ravenna at 2:30pm and had lunch immediately at Ristorante Bizzani next to our hotel – very good pasta. Hotel Byron is a very nice hotel located in the middle of the city – solid accommodations at a reasonable price. I really like Ravenna and would like to return here some day for vacation – it has a rich history and a lot of ethnic influences. The city is famous for its mosaics. Dr. Ed went to visit them while I got a massage to prepare for the hills tomorrow. I joke with Dr. Ed that I’m just going to tell people I saw the mosaics (and most other touristy type stuff on the trip) – how will they know?
Dinner was very good as well and is a good deal. Ravenna has a very warm feeling to it (this may be the alcohol talking).
A domani.
From: Bologna
To: Ravenna (via Medicina, Santa Agata and Lugo)
Miles: 50.0 (300 ft. of climbing)
Miles Completed: 206.7 (2,600 ft. of climbing)
Lunch: Ristorante Bizzani
Dinner: Ristorante La Gardela
Accommodations: Hotel Centrale Byron
Today we rose at 7am and were on the road by 8:45am – the 7am wakeup is becoming a routine. I was excited to ride today for sure. I learned the power of the tailwind today – it’s a cyclist’s best friend. We rode with little effort for the first 15 miles – almost as if we were gliding on ice – awesome feeling. I also rode to music for the first time and rediscovered the band 10,000 Maniacs – they provided a perfect backdrop for cruising the beautiful Italian scenery.
Interestingly, the part of my body that has been giving me the most trouble is my arms and they are screaming at me today. I tried several different saddle (seat) positions and none have really worked. I’m afraid I need to decide between trading off my legs for my arms if I want more arm comfort. This is a no-brainer – legs are much more important than arms so tomorrow I’m going to reposition my saddle again. Dr. Ed suggests I need a stem with more rise (higher angle), which will lift my handlebars and take pressure of my arms. The search for a new stem is on; however, I realize the odds of finding the right one are slim.
We stopped in two medieval cities on the way (Medicina and Santa Agata) which were very cool. My Italian is improving a bit and we are on a constant search for negozio della bicicletta (bike shops) for local cycling jerseys. I think “dove รจ un negozio della bicicletta?” (where is a bike shop?), has now surpassed “dis is our first week on da job” as the most used phrase on the trip.
Our second stop in Santa Agata led us to a bike shop with no jerseys; however, he directed us to a SOMEC store just before Lugo. It looked great but unfortunately it was closed until 3:30pm. For some reason, it seems like we are hitting a lot of stores/towns when they are closed. Pretty much every town has siesta from 12:30pm-3:30pm but they also have these random times when they are closed in addition. The SOMEC bike shop was randomly closed on Tuesday mornings (and that’s when we got there). Oh well. Speaking of random, Dr. Ed gets two flats within two minutes of each other – they actually turn out to be tube defects (vs. something piercing the tire). We rode through Lugo and found a bike shop called Deka but they had no good jerseys in my size. This jersey thing is becoming a serious quest.
We arrived in Ravenna at 2:30pm and had lunch immediately at Ristorante Bizzani next to our hotel – very good pasta. Hotel Byron is a very nice hotel located in the middle of the city – solid accommodations at a reasonable price. I really like Ravenna and would like to return here some day for vacation – it has a rich history and a lot of ethnic influences. The city is famous for its mosaics. Dr. Ed went to visit them while I got a massage to prepare for the hills tomorrow. I joke with Dr. Ed that I’m just going to tell people I saw the mosaics (and most other touristy type stuff on the trip) – how will they know?
Dinner was very good as well and is a good deal. Ravenna has a very warm feeling to it (this may be the alcohol talking).
A domani.
Thursday, September 27, 2007
Day 3: The World's Oldest Profession
Date: 9/10/07
From: Modena
To: Bologna
Miles: 28.2 (200 ft. of climbing)
Miles Completed: 156.7 (2,300 ft. of climbing)
Lunch: La Rotunda (via G. Amendola)
Dinner: Donatello
Accommodations: Hotel Europa
Today was our shortest scheduled ride of the trip – just under 30 miles. We rose at 7:00am and again had breakfast in the hotel, it was a modest but solid spread and the coffee was especially good. Coffee in Italy is twice as good as the U.S. and costs half as much as Starbucks (even with the Euro appreciation) – they also make it everywhere and serve it almost as if it was water. I digress.
We visited a few shops on our way out of Modena and one thing is becoming apparent: Dr. Ed likes to shop – I don’t. When Dr. Ed talks about shopping and asks if I want to join my standard joking response is “I’m a man, Ed”. I digress again.
I finally cave and do some shopping as I see a shop that carries high-quality balsamic vinegar. Balsamic vinegar is only made in Modena, where it has been made since the Middle Ages and some of the names (notably: "Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena") are protected by the Denominazione di Origine Controllata and the European Union's Protected designation of origin (thanks Wikipedia). The woman who works behind the counter offers me tastes of all the vinegars. I decide the 30 year tastes best so I bought three bottles (one for each of my parents, brother and sister) – I begin to think about extra weight and wonder if I’ll be cursing these bottles riding up the mountain passes. The woman packs the bottles in bubble wrap to protect them on our journey.
As we are approaching Bologna, I start noticing an interesting phenomenon. Random, attractive, scantily clad women are littering the shoulders of the highway (via Emilia) into the city. When you are traveling the world at only 15mph, the world slows down for you and unfortunately, sometimes your brain follows. It took me about four or five sightings to put two and two together. First woman I saw I thought to myself “wow, look at that beautiful, stranded woman…wish I had a car to help her out”…then again, “hmmm, there’s one with her daughter…and the daughter is cute also – wait, how old is she?”…finally it hits me. I tried to joke with one of them to get on my bike but they are all business.
Bologna is a cool city. Has the charm of a small Italian town but more of a big city feel on the fringes with an excellent energy to it. If I lived in Italy, I’d definitely live in Bologna. Our hotel is great – four starts and only €125 per night. The person behind the desk suggests La Rotunda for lunch – excellent suggestion. Dr. Ed and I split caprese salad (the mozz was super fresh) and I had tagliatelle Bolognese and it was great. However the pizza looked incredible and I think it was a mistake not to order one. If I ever return to Bologna, I’ll be sure to get a pizza at La Rotunda.
We ate dinner at Donatello, which was solid. I struggled through ordering a martini to a guy who spoke “un poco inglese” – when I mention vodka, his head twists and his eyes blink as if he’s confused. “Martini?”, he responds. “Yes”, I say. He returns with a putrid tasting drink – I have no idea what it is. I try to question him and he points at the drink stating “martini!”. I just drop it. For starters, I had lasagna, which tasted exactly like the lasagna at Nani, a restaurant we go to near work – big props for Nani. Second course was veal with prosciutto and chesses sauce – very good. We get gelato after dinner and it is phenomenal. The name of the place is Gelateria Pellati di Gola and it’s located at via Augosto Righi 43. The girl behind the counter is very cute and she’s showing some interest/being a bit flirty. Dr. Ed and I are joking around outside and I tell him confidently I’m going in to get her number. I was really heading in just to get the address. I had her write it down for me in my journal so it appeared she was writing down her digits. Dr. Ed was pretty keen to my scam – I need to get more complex with my pranks it seems.
Buena notte.
From: Modena
To: Bologna
Miles: 28.2 (200 ft. of climbing)
Miles Completed: 156.7 (2,300 ft. of climbing)
Lunch: La Rotunda (via G. Amendola)
Dinner: Donatello
Accommodations: Hotel Europa
Today was our shortest scheduled ride of the trip – just under 30 miles. We rose at 7:00am and again had breakfast in the hotel, it was a modest but solid spread and the coffee was especially good. Coffee in Italy is twice as good as the U.S. and costs half as much as Starbucks (even with the Euro appreciation) – they also make it everywhere and serve it almost as if it was water. I digress.
We visited a few shops on our way out of Modena and one thing is becoming apparent: Dr. Ed likes to shop – I don’t. When Dr. Ed talks about shopping and asks if I want to join my standard joking response is “I’m a man, Ed”. I digress again.
I finally cave and do some shopping as I see a shop that carries high-quality balsamic vinegar. Balsamic vinegar is only made in Modena, where it has been made since the Middle Ages and some of the names (notably: "Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena") are protected by the Denominazione di Origine Controllata and the European Union's Protected designation of origin (thanks Wikipedia). The woman who works behind the counter offers me tastes of all the vinegars. I decide the 30 year tastes best so I bought three bottles (one for each of my parents, brother and sister) – I begin to think about extra weight and wonder if I’ll be cursing these bottles riding up the mountain passes. The woman packs the bottles in bubble wrap to protect them on our journey.
As we are approaching Bologna, I start noticing an interesting phenomenon. Random, attractive, scantily clad women are littering the shoulders of the highway (via Emilia) into the city. When you are traveling the world at only 15mph, the world slows down for you and unfortunately, sometimes your brain follows. It took me about four or five sightings to put two and two together. First woman I saw I thought to myself “wow, look at that beautiful, stranded woman…wish I had a car to help her out”…then again, “hmmm, there’s one with her daughter…and the daughter is cute also – wait, how old is she?”…finally it hits me. I tried to joke with one of them to get on my bike but they are all business.
Bologna is a cool city. Has the charm of a small Italian town but more of a big city feel on the fringes with an excellent energy to it. If I lived in Italy, I’d definitely live in Bologna. Our hotel is great – four starts and only €125 per night. The person behind the desk suggests La Rotunda for lunch – excellent suggestion. Dr. Ed and I split caprese salad (the mozz was super fresh) and I had tagliatelle Bolognese and it was great. However the pizza looked incredible and I think it was a mistake not to order one. If I ever return to Bologna, I’ll be sure to get a pizza at La Rotunda.
We ate dinner at Donatello, which was solid. I struggled through ordering a martini to a guy who spoke “un poco inglese” – when I mention vodka, his head twists and his eyes blink as if he’s confused. “Martini?”, he responds. “Yes”, I say. He returns with a putrid tasting drink – I have no idea what it is. I try to question him and he points at the drink stating “martini!”. I just drop it. For starters, I had lasagna, which tasted exactly like the lasagna at Nani, a restaurant we go to near work – big props for Nani. Second course was veal with prosciutto and chesses sauce – very good. We get gelato after dinner and it is phenomenal. The name of the place is Gelateria Pellati di Gola and it’s located at via Augosto Righi 43. The girl behind the counter is very cute and she’s showing some interest/being a bit flirty. Dr. Ed and I are joking around outside and I tell him confidently I’m going in to get her number. I was really heading in just to get the address. I had her write it down for me in my journal so it appeared she was writing down her digits. Dr. Ed was pretty keen to my scam – I need to get more complex with my pranks it seems.
Buena notte.
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
Day 2: Fawlty Towers
Date: 9/9/07
From: Salsomaggiore Terme
To: Modena (via Parma and Reggio nell'Emilia)
Miles: 58.0 (1,300 ft. of climbing)
Miles Completed: 128.5 (2,100 ft. of climbing)
Lunch: Assorted from local markets
Dinner: Ristorante Fini
Accommodations: Hotel Milano
Today was the perfect touring day. We woke up at 8am and had breakfast at our hotel (apparently breakfast is included in the room rate for all Italian hotels) - it was a beautiful spread of cheese, meat and fresh pastries.
We rode east out of Salsomaggiore and headed up into the hills, choosing to take the shorter, more direct route which was much hillier and very scenic. We climbed for 10 straight miles to the castle town of Tabiano and met up with an ex-racer from Parma who was cycling home and he helped us with our direction back to the main highway (via Emilia). We did most of our climbing in and around Tabiano as the ride was mostly flat for the rest of the way. We stopped for a drink in Parma, a nice city where we will be crossing back through and staying in later in the trip. It's Sunday, so the city is pretty quiet except for a big street fair where we grab a quick bite of bread with tomatoes and basil -- pretty tasty -- the tomatoes here are great and taste "just like candy", according to Dr. Ed.
We journey east out of Parma and decide to stop in a street fair in Reggio for lunch (yes, the Reggio of Parmesan Reggiano fame). I strike up a conversation with some people selling cheese and meat and they keep breaking off cheese samples for me to try - INCREDIBLE. I was stopping there for meat so I asked for salami and they start cutting me slices to eat! They love the story of our cycling journey and give us some meat as "un regalo" -- a gift -- for our journey. Very nice people. They don't speak good English but I was still able to somehow get across the joke we were journeying to Modena for Pavarotti's funeral in Modena (which was yesterday). Dr. Ed and I grab some bread, he buys a tomato and we sit on a bench and eat, cutting pieces of bread, cheese, meat and tomato to make sandwiches. SO GOOD.
We decide to call ahead to Hotel Milano to confirm our reservation and make sure our room has two beds – they assure us we’re all set in broken English. We arrive in Modena mid afternoon and check into the hotel. I’m immediately reminded of the classic British sitcom Fawlty Towers as life imitates art (actually, the show idea originated from the Monty Python casts’ stay at a horribly run hotel in England so perhaps it’s more life imitating life).
There are two bumbling attendants behind the desk who start booking our reservation like Frick and Frack. We ask where to put our bikes and they stare at each other “dis is our first week on da job” they say. Frick decides to call the manager. I ask Frack if there is anywhere in town to watch American football. His eyes light up as he seems excited by the challenge of figuring this out – he darts out of the room to talk to the manager about it (yes, the same manager Frick is on the phone with about the parking). Frick tells us we’ll need to park our bikes in the garage for €5 each (the same price as a car) – while it seems ridiculous on principle, it’s not that much money so we agree. Frack comes back and says I can use the large TV in the common lounge to watch the game. This opens a whole new list of questions – I just decide to drop it. Needing to use the bathroom, I head up to the room as Ed secures the bicycles in the garage. I enter the room and dart to the bathroom as I’m about to burst – I see there’s only one bed but on further inspection it’s separable into two twin beds. I head downstairs to tell F and F we need another set of sheets. Upon hearing that we only had one bed they both hit their foreheads with their palms almost in unison and apologize profusely. Frick pulls out the room matrix and Frack looks over his shoulder – they start to confer. Frick shakes his head and calls the manager again. He hangs up and says “great news, you don’t need to pay for parking in the garage” – they should change the name of this place to Hotel Non Sequitur. More whispers from F and F and they finally reach a consensus. They circle our name in the matrix, draw a line across to a new room and Frack hands me the key with another apology, a confident smile and a “bonjourno”. Ed emerges from the garage and I explain the situation. He heads to the new room while I run upstairs to get my stuff from the old room and back down to give the old room key back to F and F. I enter the new room – same situation – one big bed, but separable into twin beds – except now the room and bathroom appear 50% smaller. My head drops. Ed is in the bathroom already taking a shower so I head down to attempt to get another set of sheets (again). Frack can’t believe it. “Dis is our first week on da job”, he says again. Another F and F conference and another combined analysis of the (mostly empty) room matrix. This feels like the Twilight Zone and Groundhog’s day wrapped into one. Frack grabs another room key and I start laughing at the thought of another new room. He motions for me to follow him. We go to another room on our floor and he opens the door. Two beds – “PERFECTO, I’ll grab our bags”, I said. He looks at me and says, “no, we just take’a what you need’a from here”. I almost fell over. We grab the sheets off one bed and extra towels from the bathroom, etc. We head back into the hallway and he starts running upstairs with the sheets. I ask where he is going and he says “to’a your room”. I explain our room is on the same floor. He laughs and says (all together now…) “dis is our first week on da job”. I laugh and try to take the sheets from him, motioning that I’d take care of making the new bed. Frack would have none of it. He insists on making up the new bed and we enter the room – Ed emerges from the bathroom in a towel and the “uncomfortable” meter hits red alert as there’s barely enough room for the three of us to breathe. Frack says hello to him as if they were just chatting in the lobby. I almost laugh out loud at the ridiculous scene. Frack makes the bed and I try to assist – he motions me away – when he’s finished one corner of the bed is sticking like 9 inches up in the air because he concentrated all the excess sheet into the one area – the comedy won’t end. I’m not sure he’s ever made a bed before – then again, it is his first week.
Dinner at Ristorante Fini was incredible. Top shelf food and service. I had homemade tortelloni and pork wrapped in bacon (can’t beat fat wrapped in fat).
Bed time:
From: Salsomaggiore Terme
To: Modena (via Parma and Reggio nell'Emilia)
Miles: 58.0 (1,300 ft. of climbing)
Miles Completed: 128.5 (2,100 ft. of climbing)
Lunch: Assorted from local markets
Dinner: Ristorante Fini
Accommodations: Hotel Milano
Today was the perfect touring day. We woke up at 8am and had breakfast at our hotel (apparently breakfast is included in the room rate for all Italian hotels) - it was a beautiful spread of cheese, meat and fresh pastries.
We rode east out of Salsomaggiore and headed up into the hills, choosing to take the shorter, more direct route which was much hillier and very scenic. We climbed for 10 straight miles to the castle town of Tabiano and met up with an ex-racer from Parma who was cycling home and he helped us with our direction back to the main highway (via Emilia). We did most of our climbing in and around Tabiano as the ride was mostly flat for the rest of the way. We stopped for a drink in Parma, a nice city where we will be crossing back through and staying in later in the trip. It's Sunday, so the city is pretty quiet except for a big street fair where we grab a quick bite of bread with tomatoes and basil -- pretty tasty -- the tomatoes here are great and taste "just like candy", according to Dr. Ed.
We journey east out of Parma and decide to stop in a street fair in Reggio for lunch (yes, the Reggio of Parmesan Reggiano fame). I strike up a conversation with some people selling cheese and meat and they keep breaking off cheese samples for me to try - INCREDIBLE. I was stopping there for meat so I asked for salami and they start cutting me slices to eat! They love the story of our cycling journey and give us some meat as "un regalo" -- a gift -- for our journey. Very nice people. They don't speak good English but I was still able to somehow get across the joke we were journeying to Modena for Pavarotti's funeral in Modena (which was yesterday). Dr. Ed and I grab some bread, he buys a tomato and we sit on a bench and eat, cutting pieces of bread, cheese, meat and tomato to make sandwiches. SO GOOD.
We decide to call ahead to Hotel Milano to confirm our reservation and make sure our room has two beds – they assure us we’re all set in broken English. We arrive in Modena mid afternoon and check into the hotel. I’m immediately reminded of the classic British sitcom Fawlty Towers as life imitates art (actually, the show idea originated from the Monty Python casts’ stay at a horribly run hotel in England so perhaps it’s more life imitating life).
There are two bumbling attendants behind the desk who start booking our reservation like Frick and Frack. We ask where to put our bikes and they stare at each other “dis is our first week on da job” they say. Frick decides to call the manager. I ask Frack if there is anywhere in town to watch American football. His eyes light up as he seems excited by the challenge of figuring this out – he darts out of the room to talk to the manager about it (yes, the same manager Frick is on the phone with about the parking). Frick tells us we’ll need to park our bikes in the garage for €5 each (the same price as a car) – while it seems ridiculous on principle, it’s not that much money so we agree. Frack comes back and says I can use the large TV in the common lounge to watch the game. This opens a whole new list of questions – I just decide to drop it. Needing to use the bathroom, I head up to the room as Ed secures the bicycles in the garage. I enter the room and dart to the bathroom as I’m about to burst – I see there’s only one bed but on further inspection it’s separable into two twin beds. I head downstairs to tell F and F we need another set of sheets. Upon hearing that we only had one bed they both hit their foreheads with their palms almost in unison and apologize profusely. Frick pulls out the room matrix and Frack looks over his shoulder – they start to confer. Frick shakes his head and calls the manager again. He hangs up and says “great news, you don’t need to pay for parking in the garage” – they should change the name of this place to Hotel Non Sequitur. More whispers from F and F and they finally reach a consensus. They circle our name in the matrix, draw a line across to a new room and Frack hands me the key with another apology, a confident smile and a “bonjourno”. Ed emerges from the garage and I explain the situation. He heads to the new room while I run upstairs to get my stuff from the old room and back down to give the old room key back to F and F. I enter the new room – same situation – one big bed, but separable into twin beds – except now the room and bathroom appear 50% smaller. My head drops. Ed is in the bathroom already taking a shower so I head down to attempt to get another set of sheets (again). Frack can’t believe it. “Dis is our first week on da job”, he says again. Another F and F conference and another combined analysis of the (mostly empty) room matrix. This feels like the Twilight Zone and Groundhog’s day wrapped into one. Frack grabs another room key and I start laughing at the thought of another new room. He motions for me to follow him. We go to another room on our floor and he opens the door. Two beds – “PERFECTO, I’ll grab our bags”, I said. He looks at me and says, “no, we just take’a what you need’a from here”. I almost fell over. We grab the sheets off one bed and extra towels from the bathroom, etc. We head back into the hallway and he starts running upstairs with the sheets. I ask where he is going and he says “to’a your room”. I explain our room is on the same floor. He laughs and says (all together now…) “dis is our first week on da job”. I laugh and try to take the sheets from him, motioning that I’d take care of making the new bed. Frack would have none of it. He insists on making up the new bed and we enter the room – Ed emerges from the bathroom in a towel and the “uncomfortable” meter hits red alert as there’s barely enough room for the three of us to breathe. Frack says hello to him as if they were just chatting in the lobby. I almost laugh out loud at the ridiculous scene. Frack makes the bed and I try to assist – he motions me away – when he’s finished one corner of the bed is sticking like 9 inches up in the air because he concentrated all the excess sheet into the one area – the comedy won’t end. I’m not sure he’s ever made a bed before – then again, it is his first week.
Dinner at Ristorante Fini was incredible. Top shelf food and service. I had homemade tortelloni and pork wrapped in bacon (can’t beat fat wrapped in fat).
Bed time:
Day 1: Running on Empty
Date: 9/8/07
From: Milan (Linate Airport)
To: Salsomaggiore Terme
Miles: 70.5 (800 ft. of climbing)
Miles Completed: 70.5 (800 ft. of climbing)
Lunch: Pizza @ Roadside Gas Station
Dinner: Ristorante La Porchetta
Accommodations: Hotel Casa Romagnosi
From: Milan (Linate Airport)
To: Salsomaggiore Terme
Miles: 70.5 (800 ft. of climbing)
Miles Completed: 70.5 (800 ft. of climbing)
Lunch: Pizza @ Roadside Gas Station
Dinner: Ristorante La Porchetta
Accommodations: Hotel Casa Romagnosi
Today is one of those days you mentally prepare yourself for, yet somehow it's even tougher than you could have imagined. Our flight left from JFK at 5:35pm - everything went smooth logistically - no issues with weight or bike box and the flight left on time. I took two sleeping pills in an attempt to get some shuteye on our leg to Dublin. No luck. Just felt heavy headed most of the trip and the meal seemed like a dream. May have gotten a few winks but definitely no REM cycle.
We arrive at Dublin for our 2 hour layover. We were required to go through immigration and then back through a security checkpoint. The immigration officer asked where why we were in Dublin. I tell him for a layover to Milan. "If you make it" he says. I thought it was a strange comment but when we arrived at the security line I understood what he meant. Mayhem. Luckily Dr. Ed found a "fast pass" line for us to access since we were connecting and we made it through security in less than 10 mins. The flight to Milan left a bit late but we arrived on time @ 11:50am - our luggage and bike boxes came out pretty quickly and immigration/customs were very easy. While the layover was a pain, Linate is a European-only international airport (you can't fly into Linate directly from the US - only into Malpensa), so the customs and immigration seem less demanding.
Now the race is on. We find the "left luggage" area where we are going to leave our bike cases and confirm we can leave them there. We scout out an area in the corner and begin to assemble the bikes. People are walking by, doing double takes, backing up and watching us with quizzical looks - they then move on. With little sleep and all the energy spent on traveling, my muscles are already hurting from just assembling the bike - I can't even begin to think about the ride. Somehow, despite my packing fears, my bike looks great and nothing is damaged. We get the bikes assembled, panniers packed and luggage checked in what feels like record time and hit the road at 1:30pm.
I was riding on adrenaline for the first 30 miles. While we were mainly on bigger roads, the beauty of Italy is starting to appear in patches. I also notice the cars are much friendlier to cyclists. The give you a "I'm behind you and I'm about to pass you" toot of the horn vs. flat out blowing your eardrum laying on the horn most drivers in the U.S. give you. At mile 30 the reality of 40 more miles begins to set in. I'm doubting myself but I must go on. It's painful. My legs are burning and I feel no energy yet I'm trying to pedal harder to get there faster. We are doing 19mph on the flats, which is pretty fast considering we have 35-40 extra pounds on our bike. I see we are averaging 15mph so far for the ride - again, pretty darn fast considering all the circumstances. As we are approaching mile 60 I'm not sure what to think - the town seems so close yet so far. We get directions to make a left ahead. Wait - we're starting to go uphill. This is no good. I can't even imagine climbing at this point. Well we did, for 5 miles. I could barely pedal. HELLO GRANNY. First time in the granny gear (this is the smallest ring on the crank - nicknamed the granny gear by cyclists for obvious reasons). We give up all the climbing we did in half the distance on our descent into the town. I'm blown away at how awesome Salsomaggiore is. What a sweet town. Totally worth the ride. Our hotel is very nice and we have a jacuzzi tub to boot. I take bath and we head to dinner in town. Very solid dinner - nothing to write home about (or blog about) but solid nonetheless. I need to get some shuteye. Body hurts.
A domani.
Monday, September 24, 2007
Body Depleted, Soul Refreshed
The Italy tour was a rousing success on every level. Italy is an incredible place - the scenery and food lived up to the hype and touring by bicycle is a great way to see the country. I had no bike issues (including no flats) and the logistics were incredibly smooth. In summary, over two weeks, we rode 12 days (with two rest days), covered 650 miles (the equivalent of New York City to Charlotte, North Carolina ), climbed 20,000 vertical feet (roughly 3.5 miles into the sky) and crossed four official mountain passes (passo x, Passo dei Mandrioli; Passo della Consuma; and Passo della Cisa) and numerous other "hills".
Of the twelve days of riding, three included 5,000+ feet of vertical climbing (Ravenna/Bagno di Romagna, Florence/Bagno di Romagna and La Spezia/Parma). Our longest (and toughest) ride was La Spezia/Parma (nearly 80 miles) and our shortest was Modena/Bologna (roughly 30 milies).
I've plotted our route below on this map of Italy. Since I was unable (perhaps more unwilling) to blog while I was there, I'm going to publish a post a day for the next two weeks as if I was blogging on the trip itself. Almost like a sporting event on time delay. Tune in tomorrow for day 1.
Of the twelve days of riding, three included 5,000+ feet of vertical climbing (Ravenna/Bagno di Romagna, Florence/Bagno di Romagna and La Spezia/Parma). Our longest (and toughest) ride was La Spezia/Parma (nearly 80 miles) and our shortest was Modena/Bologna (roughly 30 milies).
I've plotted our route below on this map of Italy. Since I was unable (perhaps more unwilling) to blog while I was there, I'm going to publish a post a day for the next two weeks as if I was blogging on the trip itself. Almost like a sporting event on time delay. Tune in tomorrow for day 1.
Friday, September 7, 2007
The Final Countdown
Well the bags are packed and I'm ready to roll. The Art of Packing also required some science as I'm pretty sure I'm just under the 80 lb. limit for mike bikebox and duffle bag combined - I just need to hope my home scale is correct!
The biggest "risk" in my packing is my barbag, which I'm carrying on as my "personal item" or self-proclaimed manpurse since my backpack is my dedicated carryon. The barbag is just about the same size as a purse but it's EXTREMELY heavy as it has books and other dense materials. If the security screeners balk at my barbag, my whole packing plan gets foiled. It will require me to pack extra items in my duffle bag which will then be overweight and subject to ridiculous overrage charges. I don't even want to contemplate this scenario.
This is my last blog before the trip as my flight leaves at 5:40pm tonight -- after a layover in Dublin, we'll arrive in Milan Linate Airport just before 11AM and will hopefully be on the road by 12:00-12:30pm. I'll try to blog while I'm there.
Ciao.
The biggest "risk" in my packing is my barbag, which I'm carrying on as my "personal item" or self-proclaimed manpurse since my backpack is my dedicated carryon. The barbag is just about the same size as a purse but it's EXTREMELY heavy as it has books and other dense materials. If the security screeners balk at my barbag, my whole packing plan gets foiled. It will require me to pack extra items in my duffle bag which will then be overweight and subject to ridiculous overrage charges. I don't even want to contemplate this scenario.
This is my last blog before the trip as my flight leaves at 5:40pm tonight -- after a layover in Dublin, we'll arrive in Milan Linate Airport just before 11AM and will hopefully be on the road by 12:00-12:30pm. I'll try to blog while I'm there.
Ciao.
Wednesday, September 5, 2007
The Art of Packing
Well the bike is packed. Just writing those words is a relief. It was one of those experiences that tests your patience, many times over. Suffice it to say, I had many swings of emotions trying to get it done. I used a Trico Iron Case, which has a great reputation and I think in the end will likely stand up to it.
Basically, the case works like a club sandwich. There are three foam pieces, which are essentially the bread, the frame is the meat and the wheels are the lettuce. In order to make the sandwich fit, I needed to remove the wheels, handlebars and seat/seapost. (I also needed to remove the rack.) Afert I layed the first piece of foam inside the bottom half of the case, I was perplexed how the bike and tires were going to fit considering just the frame itself was alread sticking out a few inches higher than the bottom half of the bike box. I then put on another piece of foam, followed by the wheels, which overlapped each other a bit. Now the top piece of foam and then the top of the bike case. Wow, the thing was like 6 inches from being able to close. What to do? I put gentle pressure on the case until it compressed a bit. Then I clipped the straps loosely and began to tighten them as the foam compressed. Despite my reservations, the case actually closed nice and snug. Whether there is any damage to the bike or spokes is a seperate issue!
I have a major packing dilema as you can only pack 80 total lbs for checked luggage and my bike and bike case alone weigh 60 lbs. That leaves 20 lbs for everything else. Nearly impossible. BUUUUUT, I plan to carryon a backpack (which allows me an extra 13 lbs) and will use my barbag as a personal item (aka manpurse!). I should be able to get everything under weight using this methodology.
I have a checklist of items I need to bring below. In order to be fully organized and sufficiently anal, I also listed next to the item where it would be packed and where it would be stored during touring. Basically, anything I don't need while touring (my backpack, etc...), will be left in the bikebox (which is being stored at Linate Airport for the two weeks we tour).
T minus two days...can't wait.
Item/Packing/Touring
Panniers/Duffle Bag/Bike
Duffle Bag/Duffle Bag/Bikebox
Bike Rack/Duffle Bag/Bike
iPod/Backpack/Barbag
iPod Cable Charger/Backpack/Barbag
Camera/Backpack/Barbag
Camera Charger/Backpack/Barbag
Alien Bike Tool/Bikebox/Barbag
Lifu Tool/Bikebox/Barbag
Pump/Bikebox/Bike
Water Bottles/Bikebox/Bike
Helmet/Duffle Bag/Bike
Gloves/Duffle Bag/Bike
Glasses/Barbag/Bike
Mirror/Barbag/Bike
Tubes/Barbag/Pannier - Right
Tire/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Right
Grease/Bikebox/Pannier - Right
Spokes/Bikebox/Pannier - Right
Pedals/Bikebox/Bike
Xtra pedal platforms/Bikebox/Pannier - Right
Xtra cleat screws/Bikebox/Barbag
Lube/Bikebox/Pannier - Right
Italy Tour Book/Barbag/Barbag
Italian Convo Book/Barbag/Barbag
Touring Book/Barbag/Barbag
Barbag/Backpack/Bike
Travel Pillow/Backpack/Bikebox
Int'l Power Adapter/Barbag/Barbag
Touring Journal/Barbag/Barbag
Riding Shoes/Duffle Bag/Bike
Cycling Shorts and Shirts/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Right
Flip Flops/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Left
Cargo Pants/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Left
Wool socks/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Left
Merino Tee/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Left
Merino Polo/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Left
Shorts/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Left
Underwear/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Left
Icebreaker Longsleeve/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Left
Showers Pass Jacket/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Right
Basically, the case works like a club sandwich. There are three foam pieces, which are essentially the bread, the frame is the meat and the wheels are the lettuce. In order to make the sandwich fit, I needed to remove the wheels, handlebars and seat/seapost. (I also needed to remove the rack.) Afert I layed the first piece of foam inside the bottom half of the case, I was perplexed how the bike and tires were going to fit considering just the frame itself was alread sticking out a few inches higher than the bottom half of the bike box. I then put on another piece of foam, followed by the wheels, which overlapped each other a bit. Now the top piece of foam and then the top of the bike case. Wow, the thing was like 6 inches from being able to close. What to do? I put gentle pressure on the case until it compressed a bit. Then I clipped the straps loosely and began to tighten them as the foam compressed. Despite my reservations, the case actually closed nice and snug. Whether there is any damage to the bike or spokes is a seperate issue!
I have a major packing dilema as you can only pack 80 total lbs for checked luggage and my bike and bike case alone weigh 60 lbs. That leaves 20 lbs for everything else. Nearly impossible. BUUUUUT, I plan to carryon a backpack (which allows me an extra 13 lbs) and will use my barbag as a personal item (aka manpurse!). I should be able to get everything under weight using this methodology.
I have a checklist of items I need to bring below. In order to be fully organized and sufficiently anal, I also listed next to the item where it would be packed and where it would be stored during touring. Basically, anything I don't need while touring (my backpack, etc...), will be left in the bikebox (which is being stored at Linate Airport for the two weeks we tour).
T minus two days...can't wait.
Item/Packing/Touring
Panniers/Duffle Bag/Bike
Duffle Bag/Duffle Bag/Bikebox
Bike Rack/Duffle Bag/Bike
iPod/Backpack/Barbag
iPod Cable Charger/Backpack/Barbag
Camera/Backpack/Barbag
Camera Charger/Backpack/Barbag
Alien Bike Tool/Bikebox/Barbag
Lifu Tool/Bikebox/Barbag
Pump/Bikebox/Bike
Water Bottles/Bikebox/Bike
Helmet/Duffle Bag/Bike
Gloves/Duffle Bag/Bike
Glasses/Barbag/Bike
Mirror/Barbag/Bike
Tubes/Barbag/Pannier - Right
Tire/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Right
Grease/Bikebox/Pannier - Right
Spokes/Bikebox/Pannier - Right
Pedals/Bikebox/Bike
Xtra pedal platforms/Bikebox/Pannier - Right
Xtra cleat screws/Bikebox/Barbag
Lube/Bikebox/Pannier - Right
Italy Tour Book/Barbag/Barbag
Italian Convo Book/Barbag/Barbag
Touring Book/Barbag/Barbag
Barbag/Backpack/Bike
Travel Pillow/Backpack/Bikebox
Int'l Power Adapter/Barbag/Barbag
Touring Journal/Barbag/Barbag
Riding Shoes/Duffle Bag/Bike
Cycling Shorts and Shirts/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Right
Flip Flops/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Left
Cargo Pants/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Left
Wool socks/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Left
Merino Tee/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Left
Merino Polo/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Left
Shorts/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Left
Underwear/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Left
Icebreaker Longsleeve/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Left
Showers Pass Jacket/Duffle Bag/Pannier - Right
Tuesday, September 4, 2007
Weight a Minute...
I did my final prep ride on Saturday with my touring bike pretty much set to spec. The offset of the new post I ordered is perfect and now my Brooks saddle is rearing to go. I even put on my barbag - the only thing that was missing was my rear panniers.
This was a memorable ride in a few ways. First off, the leader was riding a recumbent, and while he is a super nice guy, I'll never ride with a recumbent again. First off, they just look bizarre and you look bizarre by association. Second, they just can't keep a nice pace. It's like following a jackrabbit who with no sense of direction.
The biggest revelation of the ride though was the concept of weight. Wow, now I know why touring types always try to lighten up their load and say there's never a low enough gear. Even with just the 8 or so extra pounds of my barbag I found hills to be super painful. I can't even imagine how the "hills" in Italy are going to feel with 25 lbs added to the bike.
Well, it's off to pack the bike. I'm kind of dreading it to be honest. Feels like it's going to be an ordeal but I guess it's all just a part of the process.
This was a memorable ride in a few ways. First off, the leader was riding a recumbent, and while he is a super nice guy, I'll never ride with a recumbent again. First off, they just look bizarre and you look bizarre by association. Second, they just can't keep a nice pace. It's like following a jackrabbit who with no sense of direction.
The biggest revelation of the ride though was the concept of weight. Wow, now I know why touring types always try to lighten up their load and say there's never a low enough gear. Even with just the 8 or so extra pounds of my barbag I found hills to be super painful. I can't even imagine how the "hills" in Italy are going to feel with 25 lbs added to the bike.
Well, it's off to pack the bike. I'm kind of dreading it to be honest. Feels like it's going to be an ordeal but I guess it's all just a part of the process.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)